Surfing

Surfing is ridiculous. Ridiculously wonderful! It is being one with the ocean - literally.

I saw The September Sessions - a 2002 surf movie/documentary-like featuring the world famous Kelly Slater and other surfers with Kelly and Rob Machado doing the voice overs. This was my second surf movie so I could pretty much follow what they were saying and in what context. Thicker Than Water, another film by Jack Johnson was my first surf movie. I'd really wished Thicker Than Water had subtitles with the names and background every time they showed the surfers riding the waves or at least periodically. However, I think what worked me was that both the movies were raw, confusing, original and awe-inspiring! It was non-commercial.

Look at Kelly go for the big one! (print screen picture from the movie :)

In the movie, the surfers talk about how sometimes we get a chance of being alone but don't really enjoy the solitude. We don't even realise that we are addicted to living with people around us. I could really relate to what they said next about being able to enjoy moments of solitude especially when you are in the water, enjoying the surrounding, the temperature of the water, the birds flying by, and just looking around and all these things coming together which refreshes you. These moments are priceless - calms everything.

Surfing takes my breath away. It is beyond my comprehension as to what the surfers must be feeling at that moment when they are just On the tide or when they go Through them. The closest I could get to surfing was body boarding at Palolem - and I still cannot forget the feeling of "riding" the waves. I cannot imagine what you'd really feel when you actually surf. It makes my heart skip.

I am a total ocean babe and cannot wait to experience the waves again :)

Not a fan of surfing? Click here. This which will change your mind.